舞在大地之臍 Dance in Cusco

2008年8月28日 星期四

2008 年 4 月 1日從馬丘比丘 (Machu Picchu) 回庫斯科 (Cusco) ,行經 Ollyantambo 附近時,我們被那層層疊疊、間夾著奼紫嫣紅宛如拼布般的綠色田野給深深吸引住,於是在心中做下“一定要再回庫斯科,向外細細探訪這一片綠”的約定。

終於我們實現了對自己的承諾,在相隔兩個多月後,我們又踏上了這座高山之城。

Cusco 在印地安語 Quechua 裡意為「大地之臍」,起因為印加人認為自己是「太陽的子孫」,稱自己的國家是「世界的四方」,又因在帝國版圖上畫一個X,交叉點正是庫斯科,故將此稱作「世界的中心」。

宛如回到家一樣,我們對這裡的景物感到無比熟悉。想起第一次剛抵達此地,為了籌備 Mei 因為行李遺失需再重新添購的行頭,我們走遍大街小巷尋找所須物品,那些比手畫腳、討價還價的畫面與對話恍如昨日。正因如此我們以為這個城市本身應該不會再帶給我們太多的驚奇,沒想到迎接我們的除了當初的誓言,還有一場令人難以忘懷的安地斯山舞的盛宴。

連續好幾天,我們發現,為何天天煙火不斷?為何常常隱隱傳出鐘聲、鼓樂聲?為何時不時會遇上大陣仗的「扛神隊伍」?我們從起初單純的新鮮感轉為濃濃的好奇心,頭頂上的兩根小雷達不斷地偵測、感應,我們也像台灣派駐祕魯 Cusco 記者,接連幾天不辭辛勞的追蹤並常常衝到前線努力跟拍、以便取得最佳鏡頭,在一連串的記錄、撥絲抽繭後,我們終於知道原來我們正親臨為期一周 Corpus Christi 的節慶活動當中。

每個聖者與聖母都是被許多男子扛著一路搬運至庫斯科並回自家教堂,注意看他們光著腳須走上好幾公里以上的路,中間轉彎或前進時都須保持聖者像的平衡,這是需要多大的虔敬之心與萬眾一心才能辦到啊!有好幾次,當我們擠身在人群中,努力靠近扛神隊伍旁,忽然搬運者一不小心失去平衡讓聖者像搖搖晃晃時,我們真的是嚇得冷汗直流,深怕成為聖者倒下的壯烈犧牲品。

Corpus Christi,拉丁文意為「耶穌之軀」 (the body of Christ) ,天主教規定恭敬“耶穌聖體”、也就是紀念聖餐的節日 (聖餐儀式乃通過最後的晚餐,耶穌將麵包和葡萄酒分給門徒享用所確立的。而聖餐的麵包象徵基督的身體,聖餐的酒象徵基督的寶血) ,故稱為聖體節。

在秘魯,這是個從殖民時期就廣為慶祝的宗教節慶。復活節周日後的 60 天,約 5 月底到 6 月初之際, 15 位聖者與聖母像以數個遊行隊伍兼純人力的方式,從庫斯科週邊各地區教堂陸續被運往庫斯科中央廣場 (Plaza de Armas) 的大教堂 (La Cathedral),“恭迎”置於重 26 公斤、高 1.2 公尺金色高腳杯的”耶穌聖體”。到了晚上,聖者與聖母會被送進大教堂,而每個地區的代表則藉此機會聚在一起討論當地問題。7 天之後,這些搬運聖者、聖母的遊行隊伍將再度於舞蹈、音樂、聖歌與禱告聲中逐一賦歸。 所以這也就是為何當地人說“這些聖者們是來開會的,開完會後就會依循不同的路線從庫斯科廣場散開回去...”,如果要攔截遊行隊伍,隨著音樂聲衝過去就準沒錯了。

雖然我們並非教徒,但仍覺何其有幸, 竟能恭逢其盛。5 月 31 日的那晚甚至碰巧遇見大群舞者聚集中央廣場綵排,我們因此認識了明日即將參與慶典的舞蹈老師, Julio。他很熱心的跟我們訴說這些活動對他們的重大意義以及他對舞蹈的熱愛;他更希望來此觀光的旅客都能對秘魯留下好印象,尤其是庫斯科,因此地是這麼的美麗、文化是如此的悠遠;他熱情的邀請我們一起跟他們共舞,我們在盛情難卻之下,拎著一袋麵包、背著小背包,就跟隨他們在廣場上起舞。


Julio 對我們兩個都說“ you dance very well”,果然很有老師的風範,大大激起了我們對自己舞姿的自信,因此我們一路跳了好幾條街道、穿越數個廣場,跳到連旁邊的舞者都將其手上類似搖鼓的樂器拿給我們練習。我們開始感染了跳舞的喜悅,並納悶怎麼沒其他旅客也一起共襄盛舉,隨音樂搖擺?也許大家都跟我們以前扮演的腳色一樣,總是匍匐在一旁瘋狂擷取那千萬分之ㄧ秒的鏡頭,他們的視野得隨著那小小的觀景窗移動,身體得維持著獵人般的姿態以掌握瞬間,但那晚我們身分大改變,我們融入音樂,身體恣意擺動,舞得自由自在,隨著不斷的轉身,我們環顧四方享受眾人的“注目”。那晚,因我們適時的互換腳色,讓我們吸取到不同的生命能量,那晚,我們眼中庫斯科的夜空似乎更加璀璨了。

Julio 又說如果我們願意,他可以請他姊姊給我們兩套舞服,明日我們就可跟他們一起在街上跳舞遊行。那時,我們因明天要去 Pisaq 市集婉拒他的建議,但這可能真的是一次錯誤的決定,因為能與當地人同慶、又可穿上道地舞服的機會是多麼的千載難逢啊!而且,隔日我們還是按耐不住慶典的招喚,最終捨棄了周日到 Pisaq 大肆雪拼的計畫。我們在庫斯科的街道上仔細聆聽、尋找昨晚的音樂聲,果然經過一晚的“訓練”,那極富節奏感的音樂已深深烙印在我們的腦海,我們輕易的就在眾多舞蹈隊伍裡發現 Julio,也見識到了我們原本可能穿上的舞衣,那時頭上不禁冒出三條冷汗,這樣的衣服我們的身材穿上能看嗎?^^


Julio 為上圖左一男子,中間的女子為他姊姊,右一為他哥哥,他們一家人包含他爸爸都是舞者,可堪稱舞蹈世家了。





那裙襬飛揚的舞者讓我們目眩神移,那萬眾一心的「扛神隊伍」讓我們為之驚然,與其說我們是被那曼妙的舞姿、凝聚心力的態度所吸引,不如說我們是被他們臉上透出的喜樂光芒、身上散發出的崇敬氣息所感動...


這些舞者約花了一個多月練這支舞,舞步雖不難,但需長時間一直跳,男子還須背負著非常沉重的舞衣大轉身大搖擺,其疲憊可想而知,但他們即使已累到不行,每每望向我們的都是開心的笑容。(雖然我們也常抓到他們在旁趁機休息的畫面,在怪他們不敬業之前,自己先下去跳一輪看看吧! ^__^)





◎ 庫斯科慶典小檔案

- Inti Raymi 太陽神祭 (24th of June) : Festival of the Sun

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高山鹽湖的美麗與哀愁 The beauty and sadness of Salinas Grandes in Argentina

2008年8月26日 星期二

鹽,不僅是人類、所有動植物維持正常新陳代謝、保持體液酸鹼平衡、促進光合作用與呼吸作用的重要物質之一,也可用來保存食物、製造消毒劑與營養液的必要元素。
Salt for people, animals and plants is not only the essential substance to keep normal metabolism, to maintain the acid & alkali to be balanced, and to accelerate photosynthesis & cell respiration, but also the necessary element to preserve food, made disinfection and nourishment.

所謂「得鹽者得天下」,歷史上許多統帥、君主都發現一個道理:沒有食鹽的戰爭使人陷於絕望的失敗之役。
What is called “the person who gets salt wins the world”. Many captains and kings in the history found a principle that the war without salt makes people come to a despairing failure battle.

從美國南北戰爭中的「食鹽大戰」,北方聯軍利用斷絕南方的鹽來取得勝戰,因他們認知到“鹽可用於肉類的加工處理,沒有鹽,軍隊就無法生存下去。” 拿破崙征俄之役撤退時,成千上萬法國軍人因缺乏食鹽,不能製造任何消毒劑進行消毒而死去。而遠古的中國在進入戰國時代後,晉國分裂為韓、趙、魏三國,鹽池為魏國所有。在後來的戰國七雄中,楚、趙、燕、齊靠近大海,有海鹽。秦國有來自青海、陜北和四川成都平原的鹽,所以均能保持國力強盛。唯獨只有韓國地處內陸,沒有鹽資源,在政治和經濟上處處受人制約,最後日漸衰敗,最先滅亡。後來魏國失去河東地區,運城鹽池被秦國奪取後,也是一蹶不振。故鹽宛如「黃土地上的白金」,珍貴的成為數千年來兵家必奪之重要資源。
From the America Civil war, the northern allied forces used cutting off the salt supply of the south to win the war, it was because they were aware that “Without salt, soldiers can not do meat process and then armies can not survive.” During the time Napoléon attacked Russia and decided to evacuate, thousands of thousands French soldiers died due to the lack of salt. Without salt, they couldn’t make disinfection to disinfect the casualty, which made people easily infected to die. Thus salt is just like “the white golden in the loess” and its precious value causes all countries desire to take the important resource, even though by force.

玻利維亞位在南美洲的中心位置,在一百多年前數次戰爭失敗後,接二連三喪失了濱海的土地,成為南美唯一的內陸國,幸好其東南部、名列世界最大的 Salar de Uyuni 鹽湖 (面積 10582 KM²,海拔 3650M,鹽層平均深度 121M,鹵水濃度 80~1150 ppm,平均 321 ppm,估計含鋰550 萬噸) 提供玻國取之不盡、用之不竭的鹽, 讓它雖無地利出海,也不至缺鹽斷了生路,而其映著藍天、如夢似影的鹽湖特殊景致更成為目前南美觀光的熱門景點之ㄧ。
Bolivia is located in the center of South America. It continually lost the lands by the sea and become the only one landlocked country in the S.A., after several failure battles around one hundred years ago. Luckily Salar de Uyuni (the area is 10582 KM², height is 3650M, the depth of salt layer is 121M, brine concentration is 80~1150 ppm, average brine concentration is 321ppm) located in its southern and eastern part, the largest salt lake in the world, provides the bottomless salt to it. Nowadays the special scene of salt lake has become the most popular sightseeing spot in the South America.



Salar de Uyuni photos are provided by Vincent (Lots of thanks)

在波利維亞簽證想辦又一直被拒的狀況下,我們已開始抱著最壞打算,擬定相關波國景點的替代方案。所以將原本Rurrenabaque 的亞馬遜河之旅改為秘魯的 Iquito,Salar de Uyuni 鹽湖之旅改為阿根廷的 Salinas Grandes,Potosi 的礦坑之旅也改為智利 Calama 的, 事事豈能盡如人意,但若不懂得隨機應變只會令人愈加沮喪。
We started to draw up the alternative plans of scene spots in Bolivia under the conditions of continually getting refused in applying Bolivia visa. Thus the location of Amazon River tour was firstly changed to Iquito of Peru from Rurrenabaque, the location of salt lake tour was secondly changed to Salinas Grandes of Argentina from Salar de Uyuni, and the location of mineral tour was thirdly changed to Calama of Chile from Potosi. Not everything can be smoothly implemented by original plan, so it would make people much depressed if they don’t know how to act according to the circumstances.


2008 年 5 月 13 日,在遊覽完阿根廷 Purmamarca 七彩山後,我們便與兩位來自美國的女孩一同租了輛計程車前往 Salinas Grandes 一探鹽湖之美。這是條連續迂迴向上的山路,此段路最高點為 4170M,我們抵達時臉不紅、氣不喘,似乎早已習慣南美高原的高度壓力。我們忽然明瞭原來存在於大自然中的地勢壓力就像是充斥於我們日常生活間的無形壓力,都是需要歷經一連串的挑戰、克服,才能逐步適應並含笑迎接它的。
After a short hiking in the seven-colour mountain in Purmamarca of Argentina. we took taxi to Salinas Grandes to visit the beauty of salt lake with two American girls on 13th of May, 2008. Although this route is circuitous and up, we felt very comfortable when we arrived in its highest point, 4170M. It seemed we had got used to the altitude pressure in the highlands of South America. Suddenly we found that the altitude pressure in the nature is like the invisible pressure in our daily life, both of them need to be challenged and overcome, then we can gradually adjust and greet them with smile.


Salinas Grandes 面積 8290KM²,高度約 3436M,形成原因可能是因為因氣候變化、地殼變動,使一大片水域或海水被陸地所封閉,而成為內陸鹹水湖,海水再經陽光曝曬、長期蒸發濃縮成鹽湖。當我們越來越靠近這一塊放眼望去只有藍與白的兩極世界,內心的興奮真是難以形容。
The area and height of Salinas Grandes are 8290KM² and 3464M. The salty lake’s formation could result from the climatic fluctuation and spatial variations. Due to that, a water area was locked by lands and finally became to an inland salty lake. The lake was getting dried and condensed to a salt lake after a long-term evaporation. When we were approaching the pure blue and white world, we feel excited extremely and unspeakably.



我們迫不及待的跳下車,在這白到眼睛快睜不開,藍到心情應該不再 blue 的地方盡情拍照,然而當越走越靠近內陸,我們發現遠方有身著長袖長褲、頭戴帽子、臉帶面罩,把全身上下都包裹很好的一群人,正在烈日 (平均溫度應該有 40 度 C 以上吧) 下拿著鏟子、揮舞著鋤頭辛苦的工作著,他們默默勞動的身影與一旁嘻笑玩樂的我們形成極大的反差,如果說這個世界有沉默的時候,也許就是在這一刻吧!
We jumped out of the taxi in haste and tried to take photos as many as we can. In this place, the colour for us is too white to open eyes and is too blue to feel blue. However, when we walked further, we found there were some people wearing the long-sleeve clothes, trousers, face mask, and hats working hard under the burning sun (The average temperature should be more than 40C). A huge contrast was formed between their quiet work figures and our high jinks. If there is any silent time in the world, it may be the moment.

當我們靠近他們想捕捉其飽經風霜的面孔與形影時,有人抬起頭來,對我們搖了搖手,拒絕我們的拍攝,但不懂事的我們還是將他們拍下,在一連串相機卡卡的快門聲中,不知帶給他們內心世界多少的波動?誰想在這樣的天候工作?誰想在這樣的情況下留影?我們不禁懷疑上天為何賜給人類這麼美麗的風景,卻要人們在如此惡劣的環境求生存,而這裡也僅是冰山的一角...此時腦中忽然想起沁涼的可口可樂,真應該帶幾瓶來請這些人解解渴的。
When we closed them and wanted to capture their weather-beaten faces and figures, someone lifted up his head and refused our photography by waving their hands. But we still took some photos for them without caring about their feeling. Under a series of the sound of camera shutter, we didn’t know how much influence we had given them. Who wants to work in the dirty weather? Who wants to be taken photos in the bad situation? We couldn’t help thinking why the god gives human the gorgeous scenery, but asks them to make a living in the hard environment. In particular, it is just the tip of iceberg. At this moment, the very cold coca cola suddenly occurred to us. Why didn’t we bring some before we came, so that we could treat these workers that?


我們開始想像,不然發明機器人來這邊工作好了,但機器人能否抵抗鹽的侵蝕而不故障,那...那...那該如何是好呢?我們竟然連一個辦法也想不出來,最後,我們只有帶著無能為力的心情離開這片高山鹽湖的美麗與哀愁。
We started to imagine that maybe we can invent robots to work here, but are these robots able to avoid the corrosion of salt to keep operating well and normally? What can we do after all? To our surprise, we could not come up with any proper idea. Finally what we could do was to bring our helpless feeling to leave the beauty and sadness of the salt lake.

上車時,與我們結伴前來的兩位美國女孩愛不釋手的看著她們在此僅有的一個"攤販"買的石雕,我們好奇的湊過去看,發現上面的駱馬、太陽、仙人掌等圖案真的是相當吸引人。我們探出窗外看著那位同樣把自己包著緊緊的雕刻師傅,正專心低著頭一筆一畫的刻著可能為他賺進生活費的作品。我們真後悔,剛剛為何只顧玩樂沒去欣賞師傅的手藝,也許可以順便替自己買個純手工紀念品,也許可以間接幫助了高原上的一家人,也許我們原本不忍的心可以因此稍感安慰...
When we hoped in the taxi, we found that the two American girls were looking at the stone carvings they bought from the only one vendor here. The patterns including vicuna, sun and cactus etc. in the carvings are really appealing. We watched the master outside the window who was concentrating on creating a new work. We regretted that why we only spent time in taking photos just now instead of appreciating the master’s handicraft. Maybe we could buy some manual souvenirs for ourselves and friends; maybe we could indirectly help a family in the highland and could get a bit comfort with the purchase…



◎ Salinas Grandes 資訊小站:
1) Bus Ticket to Purmamarca from Salta via Evelia : around 1 ~ 1.5 hrs, Peso $ 7.5 (阿根廷幣)
2) Taxi to Salt Field of Salinas Grandes: around 1 hr, Peso $ 30/ per person (one taxi needs to collect 4 people in total and then it will go.)
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有緣千里來相會 Fate brings us together

2008年8月23日 星期六

「我不喜歡跟朋友約時間碰面,因為大家很難湊出一天,但沒有相約,你就是會在路上與他不期而遇。」Vincent,Inca Trail 的夥伴,有天說出了這段話,我們在後來的旅程中印證了它。
"I don’t like to make an appointment with friends because it is difficult to set up a date. However, you will just meet them unexpectedly” Vincent, a member of Inca Trail, said and we proved it in the following trip.

第一次遇到 Karen 是在 Torres del Paine 健行的第三天。
The first time we met Karen was on the 3rd day of our trekking in Torres del Paine.

暴雨中,我們正通過決定先放棄的 French Valley 指標。Karen 背著背包,穿著雨衣雨褲,拿著兩根登山杖迎面過來,我們如往常跟遇到其他人一樣的 Say Hi 後就各自往各自的方向前進。走沒幾步,突然聽到「你們是從 French Valley 過來的嗎?」我們回頭,於是有了第一次的交流。
In the pouring rain, we were passing the sign of French Valley. Karen backpacked, wore raincoat, took two hiking sticke, was walking to us. We said Hi to her as usual and were toward our own way. "Are you walking from French Valley?" We turned around. That was our first meet.

原來前一天天氣不好,Karen走了半天沒看到冰河,現在又在大雨磅礡中走了好幾個小時,雖然不想錯失 French Valley 的美景,但一個人又濕又冷獨自行走下的孤單寂寞,讓她不知道還能不能接受攻上 French Valley 卻啥景色也看不到的打擊。她無奈的說了一句,「我不想一直在雨裡行走呀」。這心情我們真懂。於是做了隔日天氣好在山頭相見的約定後,再次道別離去。
Karen was upset that she didn't see the glacier in previous day due to the bad weather and now she has been walking in the rain for couple hours. She couldn't decide if she should go up to French valley although we all heard it is quite pretty there. "I don't want to walk in the rain always." She said. We definitely understood that and suggested her to come here tomorrow if the weather is better.


想當然爾的,隔天天氣雖然還可以,我們兩個卻因為路實在難行而決定繼續原本計畫中的前進,心中只能默默希望在山頭的她,因為美景當前而原諒我們的缺席。
Of course, we didnt go back the next day even the weather was much better because we were tired of walking the same way again. Hopefully Karen wouldn't blame us when she saw the beautiful scenery.

再次遇見 Karen,是在回 Puerto Natales 的路上。沒想到,那天她也決定繼續前進,也沒返回French Valley。我們相似的個性表露無遺,也許因為這樣,種下了往後的緣份。
We met her again on the way back to Puerto Natales and realised she didn't go back to French Valley either. Maybe because of the similar personality, we had more and more contacts soon later.

雖然我們往後的行程幾乎是類似的,卻因為一切因素沒有機會同遊,但卻意外的在往 El Calafate 的巴士、往 Perito Moreno 冰河的巴士、遊冰河的遊輪、El Cháten 的 Hostel,與她不期而遇。每次相遇都不免一陣驚呼,因為我們從未說定,卻屢屢在同一時間內出現。
We didn't travel together although our itineries were almost the same. However, we met again and again on the bus to El Calafate, to Perito Moreno, in the ferry to see glaicers, in the hostel in El Chaten. Everytime was always surprising us.

她比我們早幾天抵達 Buenos Aires (布宜諾艾利斯,阿根廷首府)。由於 Buenos Aires 之大,讓我們以為 Cháten 的碰面,是我們與她的最後一次相見。但就在我們與S錯過的那個下午,在 Recoleta叫出我們名字的,又是幾天不見的 Karen。
We thought the meeting in El Chaten was the last time we saw her. However, she called us again in Recoleta in Buenos Aires.

Karen 說她終於拋開旅程中斤斤計較的日子,去渡過一個最美好的農村生活。那時開懷大笑的Karen 已經不再是我們先前認識的那個一直無奈的 Karen 了。她笑著分享農村生活裡的種種。也因為在 Pertito Moreno 讓她發現我們照相頻率之高,她買了一台立可拍相機,說要在剩下的旅遊天數裡留下一點紀念。這個下午,Recoleta 公墓裡的一張長椅,取代了墓園裡個個聲勢顯赫的人名。而我們也相約在 Iquazu(伊瓜蘇)能夠再次碰面。
Karen said she decided to enjoy the trip not just worried about the money. So she went to a village and had luxury days over there. She did have a great time there. She was smiling when she was saying those happy days. She was not the first Karen we met. She bought a camera and would like to take as many photos as we did to have some memories for the last part of the trip. This afternoon, a bench was instead of those famous people. We hope to meet each other in Iquazu.

只是沒想到不用到伊瓜蘇,我們還是能夠相遇。
But, we didn't have to be in Iquazu.

就在當晚的餐廳裡,我們正在說著可惜不知道 Karen 住的 Hostel,不然可以找她一起吃飯時,一個熟悉的身影從門口走了進來。沒錯,就是 Karen。
We couldn't believe we saw Karen again just in the same night in the restaurant when we were saying we should invite her for dinner.

我們實在不敢相信這樣的巧合,只能驚訝的看著她走到我們的桌旁。Karen 說她就住在附近,正要去看探戈秀,路過這間餐廳時,覺得好像是我們跟她提過的,往內一看,我們兩個竟然就坐在裡面。如同第一次的碰面,她又問了我們,「今晚我要不要去看探戈秀呀?」我們理所當然的如同第一次碰面時的建議,「不要,改明天吧。」
What a coincidence. That was really astonishing to us. But same to Karen. She was on the way to a tango show and thought this restaurant might be mentioned by us so she just looked inside. she was also unthought of seeing us there. As the first time we met, she asked "should I still be the tango show?" Of course, the answer was "go tomorrow".

我們相約下次的碰面一定要一起好好吃頓飯,喝個酒,聊一聊。可惜的是,相約後,就再也沒在路上遇見Karen 了。
We said we would surely have a nice dinner together next time. But after this promise, we didn't meet Karen again.

之後,也陸續發生在 San Pedro de Atacama (智利) 認識的 Rolf 與 Charlotte,分別與前者在 Arica (智利) 以及與後者在 Cusco、Colca Canyon (秘魯)的意外相遇。
After Karen, we met Rolf and Charlotte in Chile and in Peru.

在 Jujuy (阿根廷) 同一個寢室的 Eugenia,之後在 Arica 遇見,又意外的在 Cusco 先後走進同一間餐廳,坐在隔壁桌。
Eugenia, our roomate in Jujuy. We met her again in Arica. The most surprising one was we walked into the same restaurant in Cusco early or late and just sat next to each other.

El Cháten 請我們喝啤酒的 OK 先生,後來在 Buenos Aires 再次碰到他與他的家人。
We met Mr. OK in El Chaten and in Buenos Aires again with his family.

還有,已經與我們坐同一台車出發到Arica的江氏夫妻,卻等到Cusco 才相認。
In addition, Mr. and Mrs. Chiang were in the same bus to Arica with us but we just talked to each other in Cusco.

也許真的是有緣千里來相會。這一次次的相遇,不禁讓我們對於緣份二字有著更實際的體認,也讓我們相信,未來的某一天,在世界的某一個角落,我們一定也會再次與擁有相同回憶的你們再次碰面。
Fate bring all of us together. Those experience makes us learn more about it. We believe that we will meet again someday, somewhere.



※原文同步發佈於兔子逛大街
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