沙漠, 殺寞...殺漠寂寞 (祕魯沙漠風光) The way from Lima to Ayacucho

2008年7月30日 星期三

這是我們到達南美祕魯的第 3 天，為了前往全世界 holy week 慶典頗負盛名的 Ayacucho，我們搭了早班的 Cruz del sur 從 Lima 出發，幸好，我們不像畫裡所示騎著駱駝而是搭車前往...

This was in our 3rd day in Lima. We took an early bus (Cruz del Sur) from Lima to Ayacucho where is famous for holy week festival.

這是我們第一次挑戰長達 10 小時的車程，坐上巴士時，還有工作人員拿著 V8 對每個人進行人像錄影，我們心想這是什麼國家？看來犯罪率應該很高，所以連乘客都要錄影存證，以便日後方便緝兇。心中七上八下的又參雜著莫名的新鮮感，我們就這樣啟程了。

This was our 1st time to take a 10-hour bus. The staff also taped all passengers. It seems because of the high crime rate here, they need to have a record for further investigation if necessary. Well, with the fresh experience, we departed.

車上人並不多，應該是這票價對當地人來說嫌貴了，背包客除了我們倆個好像也沒幾個，Ayacucho 顯然乏人問津，我們替自己找了個理由“出來了就是去沒人要去的地方。”我們得意的笑了！

There were not many passengers, also not many backpackers. Obviously, Ayacucho is not a famous spot. "Od course, we definitely go to the places where nobody like to go." We were pleased with ourselves.

車行一陣後，看著窗外的風景，腦海中響起我們第一版旅遊計畫裡的一段話「沿途路經沙漠，原野之奇妙景色美不勝收，與一般習見之觀光風景大異其趣」。因我們發現，果真是荒野連綿、沙漠片片！

After few hours driving, however the only view is wilds and deserts.

我們試圖在這黃沙遍步處尋找顏色與生命的蹤跡，發覺除了忽逢的綠色田野、曬乾的紅艷辣椒、放牧的牛羊；偶爾從類似廢墟的屋中露出的臉孔；中途巴士休憩處的小販外，生命跡象難尋、色彩不脫 WYB (W= White, e.g. 白雲, Y=Yellow, e.g. 沙漠，B = Blue, e.g. 藍天) 。

We tried to find colours and life beings in this desert area. But only few green fields, dried chilly peppers, grazed cows and sheeps and vendors in the bus parking lots. It is difficult to find human beings and only WYB colours (W-white, like white clouds, Y-Yellow, like desert, B-Blue, like blue sky)

也許因為旅程才剛開始，我們還來不及思考這樣的氣候能種植什麼樣的農作物，還來不及憂傷住在這等荒涼環境的居民，還來不及敬佩逢車便打起精神叫賣、但銷售量未必甚佳的小販，只是我們的手始終寸步不離相機，見到什麼就拍什麼。

Maybe because it was just the beginning of the journey. We hadn't understood what kind of crops can be grew in this climate, hadn't grieved the inhabitants the vendors here. We just took everything we were seeing.

第一次的經驗總是好的，長途車原本會帶來的疲憊毫不存在，單調的色彩變成獨特的風景，奔放的心情殺死沙漠寂寞，充沛的精力讓我們與安地斯山喜相逢，見識到它雲霧環繞的丰采。

It is always feeling good when you try something new. The exhaustion came from the long-distance didn't affect us. We were happy tosee the unique scenery, the Andes surrounding clouds. Our untrammelled mood killed the lonelyness in the desert too.

無人預料到再過沒多久，我們將面臨高度的挑戰，頭痛心悸再也無心欣賞什麼山景什麼雲彩，也將喝到南美的第一碗 coca tea 一解高山症之苦.

No one of us expected that we would face the challenge of high altitude very soon later. Headache, palpitations, and our first coca tea.